Saturday, June 21, 2008

The Bazaar, the Spice Bazaar, and a boat ride on the Bosphorus Strait, separating Asia and Europe


...click photos to enlarge...

After a somewhat sleep-jangled start, we went out to breakfast at a restaurant four stories up, on a rooftop, with a view along both shores of the Bosphorus Strait. The food was good, and I especially liked the fresh French bread and fresh-squeezed sour cherry juice. Then, we went to visit the Spice Bazaar, the Grand Bazaar, and take a tourist boat, along with hundreds of Turks, around the Bosphorus Strait.

The spice bazaar, while still functioning as a local fulcrum for purchasing bulk goods, also clearly now caters to tourists, selling many goods no local could ever want, or need. The spices looked great!

On the whole, the merchants were no more aggressive than you see in any other market in Mexico, or even Seattle's public market. There were hundreds of spice merchants, but also many people selling soccer jerseys, chess sets, hookahs, fezes, etc.


The Spice Bazaar


Turkish Viagra for sale


Perfectly groomed mountains of spices

After our walk through the spice bazaar, we decided to take one of the many boat tours around the harbor and got on a boat the Turks were taking, avoiding the more expensive Euro-American tour. Shortly after boarding, Keelin read in her tour book that the boat ride was 8 hours long, and would involve a two hour captive stop at a restaurant! This boat did not even have a bathroom! After passing the bridge, and slowly turning around, we realized this would actually be a much shorter trip.

I could go on and on about this strait and its history of the strait, but if you're really interested, check out this footnote [1], a/k/a satellite data cluster.


Keelin on the tour boat


A view from the boat

A pasha's mansion on the Bosphorus

Twierdza Rumelli

The Bosphorus bridge between Asia and Europe



The strait in a satellite view


An old Pasha's mansion on the Strait

[1] From the Wikipedia: As the only passage between the Black Sea and the Mediterranean, the Bosporus has always been of great commercial and strategic importance. The Greek city-state of Athens in the 5th century BC, which was dependent on grain imports from Scythia, therefore maintained critical alliances with cities which controlled the straits, such as the Megarian colony Byzantium.

The strategic significance of the strait was one of the factors in the decision of the Roman Emperor Constantine the Great to found there in 330 AD his new capital, Constantinople, which came to be known as the capital of the Eastern Roman Empire. On May 29, 1453 it was conquered by the emerging Ottoman Empire. In fact, as the Ottoman Turks closed in on Constantinople, they constructed a fortification on each side of the strait, Anadoluhisarı (1393) and Rumelihisarı (1451). They later renamed the city Istanbul.

The strategic importance of the Bosporus remains high, and control over it has been an objective of a number of hostilities in modern history, notably the Russo-Turkish War, 1877-1878, as well as of the attack of the Allied Powers on the Dardanelles in 1915 in the course of the First World War. Several international treaties have governed vessels using the waters, including the Montreux Convention Regarding the Regime of the Turkish Straits, signed in 1936. In the conferences during World War II, Soviet leader Joseph Stalin openly requested the concession of Soviet military bases on the Turkish Straits, even though Turkey was not involved in the war. This incident, coupled with Stalin's demands for the restitution of the Turkish provinces of Kars, Artvin and Ardahan to the Soviet Union (which were lost by Turkey with the Russo-Turkish War (1877-1878) but were regained with the Treaty of Kars in 1921) was one of the main reasons why Turkey decided to give up its principle of neutrality in foreign affairs and join NATO in 1952. In more recent years, the Turkish Straits have become particularly important for the oil industry. Russian oil, from ports such as Novorossyisk, is exported by tankers to western Europe and the U.S. via the Bosphorus and the Dardanelles straits.

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Friday, June 20, 2008

Istanbul: The Galata Tower



Our apartment in Istanbul (nee Constantinople) is just around the corner from the Galata Tower...



The tower was built as Christea Turris (Christ's Tower) in 1348 during the expansion of the Genoese colony in Constantinople. It was part of the fortifications around the citadel of Galata. The two hundred foot tower was the city's tallest structure...back in the 14th century.

The conical cap has changed over the years, but otherwise but the tower mostly stands as it was built. During the Ottoman empire it was used as an observation tower for spotting fires. An urban legend says that in 1638, Hezarfen Ahmet Çelebi flew from the tower with artificial wings over the Bosphorus.



For my part, the tower makes it easy to find our apartment, which is tucked away on the hill among the windy cobblestone streets. And even the most non-English speaking Turk can point out its direction when I ask in my bizarre half-Spanish half-English speech.
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Istanbul: Arrival, recovery, and exploration


the "living room"
We have arrived and even slept, after a fairly brutal journey here. By the time we finally arrived at the Bereket apartments, we were ready to stop. We had been in the air and waiting around airports for about 24 hours. I unpacked and fell into bed rapidly. Even though it was 1 AM, the youth went exploring the neighborhood, and made friends over beer with some kids at a hostel. When I was in Morocco in the mid 80's, we had to seek out alcohol in the Jewish neighborhoods. And if anything, Turkey is even more Moslem. Well, more on that, anon. Even Keelin--normally the first to fall out--managed to stay awake a few hours (since she slept on the longest flight).

The facade of our apartment

A driver met us at the airport and took us to out apartment. They had a bowl of fruit, a jug of water, and a bottle of quite good red Turkish wine (a nice 2006 blend of Cab, merlot, and aligante) waiting for us.


entrance to our apartment

I sit here sipping some bad "3 in 1" Nescafe (sugar, instant coffee, powdered creamer, all in one "product," which reminds me of being in Greece when Nescafe ruled. I am listening to the twitter and chirping of birds (and one hungry cat) and delivery trucks as Istanbul begins to wake up. About two hours ago, I was awakened by the sound of a Muezzin calling people to prayers at the mosque. This is exciting, and I am having trouble not waking people yet. This is not normal on a family trip--I am always the one up until late, sleeping four hours past everyone else.

Our apartment is on a very narrow cobblestone street (and it's carless!). The apartments is extremely light, with some views of the Old City. Around the corner is the Konak Patisserie & Cafe which I am itching to try as soon as everyone wakes up!


view from the bedroom

Our apartment building, a five story walk-up was built in 1885 and has been (seismically too I hope) restored, with ten foot ceilings, fantastic ornate plasterwork cornices, well-worn hardwood floors, some brick walls, burnished old wooden window frames, rear-facing Romeo and Juliet balconies, nice bathrooms with big tubs, a washer, a serviceable kitchen, and satellite TV, a CD player, and (!!!) a high speed Internet connection, which is why I am writing to you at 6 in the morning.

More soon...after all, all I've done in Istanbul so far is drink coffee in my apartment and write to you, Friendos.
---o0o---

Thursday, June 19, 2008

Arriving in Istanbul Thursday night



Our itinerary: Depart Seattle 3:00 pm Wednesday. Arrive Calgary 5:00. Wait for four hours. Fly to London overnight. Wait two hours. Fly to Istanbul, arriving 11:00 pm local time.

I'll write and send pictures when I can...
---o0o---

Tuesday, June 17, 2008

Will C's Homage to President Dwayne Elizondo Mountain Dew Herbert Camacho


Click to enlarge President Dwayne Elizondo Mountain Dew Herbert Camacho
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Video: The Old 97's - Blame It On Gravity - The Story Behind The Album

A video on the making of the Old 97's latest album, Blame It On Gravity. The album is very good, and it sounds great!


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TBTL: Too Beautiful To Live: Give it a listen



I keep bringing this up, but you need to listen to Luke Burbank and Jen Andrews on TBTL (Too Beautiful To Live). I am not going to go into any details--if you live in Seattle, tune in Kiro 710 AM from 7-10 Weekdays (with a best of on Saturday), or go to iTunes, or to TBTL.net. These people are reinventing radio.
---o0o---

Old 97's rock the Showbox in Seattle



The Old 97's played a rockin' show Saturday night in Seattle at The Showbox. The bands that opened--Hayes Carll and I Love Math were also Texas bands. I was not such a big fan of either I love math ( the Old 97's drummer is a member) or Hayes Carll's band. Musically they were very good, but neither bands had very good singing chops...especially when you knew what was to follow. But the audience and the ten people I went to the show with all loved them.

This is my 4th Old 97's show (Stubbs in Austin twice, The Gorge at George, Wash., and Seattle), and it is my favorite so far. They played five songs from their new album, Blame It On Gravity, and a lot of songs from previous albums: Lonely Holiday, Question, West Texas Teardrops, Rollerskate Skinny, Up the Devil's Pay, Designs on You, Barrier Reef, Melt Show, Big Brown Eyes, and a bunch more. Rhett Miller was his usual hip swinging, smoldering glancing self, and the girls and women in the front, near the stage treated him like a latter day Tom Jones (although no undergarments were thrown). The band was in fine fettle--great guitar and drumming, outstanding vocals, doing their dance between serious rock and roll and power pop with a tinge of country. It was a 4 1/2 show between all three acts, and then at about 12:40, the band finished up. And then came back for two encores, totalling about eight more songs. We left happy. I love these guys.
---o0o---

Monday, June 16, 2008

Three photgraphs of uncontrolled landings

Flying can sometimes be better
Than not flying.
Three examples:






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Alien Lore No. 133 - The KGB UFO Files

An interesting clip from the recently released KGB UFO files. One video in the archive includes video footage of an alleged mass abduction of Russians during the mid-80's.

The declassified Russian archives include several interesting possible UFO recordings... I am trying to locate the mass abduction video right now...



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Sunday, June 15, 2008

Happy Father's Day


Dean Ericksen enjoys the seat of honor at this morning's father's day brunch



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