Wednesday, July 09, 2008
Jesse Ventura to run against Al Franken for Senate
Jesse Ventura, the guy you'd want beside you in a dark alley
Former Gov. Jesse Ventura told NPR's David Welna today that he will run for the Senate, against Sen. Norm Coleman (whom Ventura beat in a race for governor in 1998). He will also be running against Al Franken.
Ventura said the main reason he's running is because of Coleman's support for the war in Iraq. "That's the reason I run," he says. "I run because it angers me...All you Minnesotans take a good hard look at all three of us. And you decide: if you were in a dark alley which one of the three of us would you want with you?
Poem: The listing freighter in the harbor at Kato Zakris, Crete
Down the hill from the ruins
Of the Minoan palace at Kato Zakris
A battered and rusting old freighter showed up
Six months ago,
With a Pakistani crew
And flying the Egyptian flag.
None of the locals knows
Quite what went wrong.
They do know the ship is still here,
Anchored 30 meters offshore,
Rusting and listing in the harbor,
Waiting for indeterminate repairs
After running into some nebulous “trouble.”
So they parked her, where she sits today,
To the locals’ chagrin,
Waiting for Euros, or parts, or a new owner.
No one quite seems to know.
There may or may not be a crew on board
As she slowly rusts away
And begins listing even more.
Someone will either show up with cash and parts,
Or the crew will slowly drift away
And they will eventually tow it out
And scuttle it in the Aegean.
My waiter told me “It was interesting
The first day, after that it’s a scar
We hope goes away soon.”
---o0o---
Sitia, Crete, and Minoan ruins at Kato Zarkis
a cemetary in a village in the mountains near Kato Zarkis - click to enlarge
Another view...of family tombs at a roadside church - click to enlarge
Yesterday, we drove from our aparment in Sitia about an hour along the rugged, twisting, coastline, up and down steep, rocky hills, to another Minoan Palace. The palace at Kato Zakris is roughly 4,000 years old, and was probably destroyed by the cataclysmic volcanic explosion from Santorini/Thira in 1650 B.C. The volcanic explosion is said to have been the strongest ever on earth.
Zakris is an extensive ruins, far less reconstructed than the one at Knossos. Two nights from now, we will be staying on the very rim of the caldera formed on Santorini when the volcano exploded and blew a gigantic hole in the middle of the island. The hole—a calderas--filled with seawater. Our hotel in Thira is 30 meters from the edge of the caldera. That volcanic blast wiped out most of the Minoan civilizations along the Aegean.
Yesterday, we drove from our aparment in Sitia about an hour along the rugged, twisting, coastline, up and down steep, rocky hills, to another Minoan Palace. The palace at Kato Zakris is roughly 4,000 years old, and was probably destroyed by the cataclysmic volcanic explosion from Santorini/Thira in 1650 B.C. The volcanic explosion is said to have been the strongest ever on earth.
Zakris is an extensive ruins, far less reconstructed than the one at Knossos. Two nights from now, we will be staying on the very rim of the caldera formed on Santorini when the volcano exploded and blew a gigantic hole in the middle of the island. The hole—a calderas--filled with seawater. Our hotel in Thira is 30 meters from the edge of the caldera. That volcanic blast wiped out most of the Minoan civilizations along the Aegean.
Click to enlarge. Jack and Keelin Curran at the Minoan Palace at Kato Zarkis
We are currently staying in Setia, Crete, a little-touristed, sleepy, 8,000 person town, lined with great beaches (including an almost deserted one right near our apartment). It’s great swimming here, in the 90 degree water. . .the same temperature as the air. The water is very clean, and the Aegean here is bright blue. The beaches are lined with fantastic round pebbles in reds, greens, greys, ivory, white, and agate. I’ve picked up a few handfuls for my now extensive collection of rocks from North Africa, Central Oregon, Puget Sound, Canada, Montana, Idaho, California, the Oregon coast, Turkey, Cape Cod, and the San Juan Islands.
We are currently staying in Setia, Crete, a little-touristed, sleepy, 8,000 person town, lined with great beaches (including an almost deserted one right near our apartment). It’s great swimming here, in the 90 degree water. . .the same temperature as the air. The water is very clean, and the Aegean here is bright blue. The beaches are lined with fantastic round pebbles in reds, greens, greys, ivory, white, and agate. I’ve picked up a few handfuls for my now extensive collection of rocks from North Africa, Central Oregon, Puget Sound, Canada, Montana, Idaho, California, the Oregon coast, Turkey, Cape Cod, and the San Juan Islands.
The Central courtyard at the palace at Kato Zakris - click to enlarge
I’ve noticed on this trip that I have not experienced ruin- or museum-fatigue. In fact, on the odd days when we haven’t visited an ancient site, I actually miss them. I keep trying to get Column to write a counterpoint on the ruins. At times he’s clearly felt like “we’re travelling two hours to look at another rubble heap of columns, bricks, stones, and broken statuary?!”
If we didn't have enough museums and ruins for the day, we stopped at an old Greek Orthodox Monastery on the way home for half an hour and inspected many Ikon paintings and old engravings and manuscripts. It was interesting to see how deteriorated the paintings had become since they were painted five centuries ago...when you remember that we have been looking at incredibly intact frescoes and cave paintings on this trip up to 3,500 years older (see, for example the earlier post on the caves and churches of Cappodocia).
Perhaps the most interesting exhibit--for me at least--were the displays of blunderbusses, rifles, pistols and ammunition from wars in the 1800s, World War I and World War II, when the brothers put down their devotions and scholarly pursuits to take up arms and defend Greece, their Monastery and Church against various maurading hordes. . .up to and including the Nazis (who, as you may know, savaged Crete during World War II).
Finally, in the bay at Zakris, sits a listing, rusting freighter thay may or may not be abandoned. I wrote a poem about the freighter, which I will post next.
I’ve noticed on this trip that I have not experienced ruin- or museum-fatigue. In fact, on the odd days when we haven’t visited an ancient site, I actually miss them. I keep trying to get Column to write a counterpoint on the ruins. At times he’s clearly felt like “we’re travelling two hours to look at another rubble heap of columns, bricks, stones, and broken statuary?!”
If we didn't have enough museums and ruins for the day, we stopped at an old Greek Orthodox Monastery on the way home for half an hour and inspected many Ikon paintings and old engravings and manuscripts. It was interesting to see how deteriorated the paintings had become since they were painted five centuries ago...when you remember that we have been looking at incredibly intact frescoes and cave paintings on this trip up to 3,500 years older (see, for example the earlier post on the caves and churches of Cappodocia).
Perhaps the most interesting exhibit--for me at least--were the displays of blunderbusses, rifles, pistols and ammunition from wars in the 1800s, World War I and World War II, when the brothers put down their devotions and scholarly pursuits to take up arms and defend Greece, their Monastery and Church against various maurading hordes. . .up to and including the Nazis (who, as you may know, savaged Crete during World War II).
Finally, in the bay at Zakris, sits a listing, rusting freighter thay may or may not be abandoned. I wrote a poem about the freighter, which I will post next.
---o0o---
The Incredible Minoan Ruins at Knossos, Crete
4/5 of the family at Knossos. The other 20% were taking the photo. Click to enlarge.
We visited the impressive Knossos ruins, just outside Heraklion, Crete, about half an hour after landing on our turbo prop flight from Rhodes. This is my second visit here, and it’s still as impressive as I found in 1982.
The famous dolphin Fresco at Knossos. Circa about the 15th Century B.C. - click to enlarge
Although the controversial archaeologist Arthur Evans took some liberties in his reconstruction (but not his excavations), in some ways these are the most impressive ruins of all, and give you a better picture of what once existed there. Some other archeologists strongly disagree with his theories on Minoan culture and life at the palace. And, in particular, people object to his use of reinforced concrete (and other “non-native”) materials to bridge the gaps (of missing timbers, slabs, or tiles) and actually recreate entire rooms and series of rooms and chambers. They also object to his use of copies of frescoes, thrones, and friezes (that he took away and placed in places like the Heraklion Archaeological museum). On the other hand, unlike other British raiders, he left the booty right here in Greece, instead of hauling it back to the British Museum.
Jack's drawing of the famous Minotaur at Knossos - click to enlarge
Seeing even copies of the 4,000 year old frescoes in place is incredible, and puts the palace in great context, unlike the extensive ruins at, say Afrodesia or Ephesus. If you want to see the originals, you visit the Heraklion Museum…just like you don’t see Michaelangelo’s David outdoors, but a copy. It’s not that radical a concept…if you visit ruins and museums a lot, you well know that most Roman and Greek statuary is hidden away in museums, not exposed at their native site.
part of the reconctructed ruins at Knossos - click to enlarge
People do respect much of Evans’ theory and work, but a small group violently object. . .and it’s not hard to see their point either. Evans was brilliant, so sure I don’t begrudge him a few crackpot theories or taking certain liberties. In my booklet, it was all worth it.
another famous fresco at Knossos (or, rather, a copy--the originals are in the stellar museum at Heraklion). Click to enlarge.
---o0o---
Tuesday, July 08, 2008
The Island of Rhodes, Greece
The fortress of the Knights of Malta
Rhodes was an interesting and fairly frantic stop on our trip (we were there two nights). Aside from the convergance of tour buses on some archaeological sites, this was by far the most touristy part of our trip so far. There weren't many Americans in Rhodes, but there were thousands of Danes, Germans, Brits, Swedes, Italians, and Greek tourists as well. The beach was crowded and intense. There were a fair number of topless sunbathers, most of them 65 year old Dutch women.
The tourist part of the new town is predicatably garish and crowded. The old town--inside the old Knights of Malta fortress was also heavily touristed, but the fortress was so incredible, you lived with it. For a short period of time, The Knights ruled Rhodes, with seven Garrisions that each spoke a different language. They controlled politics and trade until the Sultan Suleyman sent them packing and claimed the Island for his own empire. The fortress is an incredible stone affair, with a moat that is unbelievably deep and wide. I'd never really toured castles much, so I don't think I'd seen a moat before. Wow. I'll put in a picture of it.
Aside from the fortress and fortification walls, Rhodes has the remnants of an Acropolis, and a heavily reconstructed theatre and stadium. We walked up the hill one night on our way to dinner to check out these ruins (even some of the kids have become ruins buffs by now).
After that, we went to a local place our landlord had recommended for the best chicken and potatoes in Rhodes...in the form of the ubiquitous "gyro." It was great...so great, we went back the next night. In addition to being the cheapest food on our trip, it was a real treat for us on Rhodes, because it was absolutely not a tourist joint. Fortunately, our waiter spoke great English and steered us through ordering. She was also a fan of America in general (as many Greeks seem to be...excepting any love for our President), and asked us lots of questions, and expressed a desire to visit the US soon. And she was incredibly beautiful...appropos of nothing at all.
After two days in Rhodes, we were ready to depart on a turbo-prop for Crete. It was great to be back in Greece, and it was everything I remembered. The retsina, the great salads, and most of all the exuberant and warm Greek people (Hellenikis)...it was nice to renew our acquantance. We flew to Heraklion, Crete, stopped at the ruins at Knossos, and drove a winding mountain pass along the coastline to Sitia, a coastal town with virtually no tourists. We have an apartment here, a block from the beach. That is most welcome because the temperature is hovering in the low 100s. The water is warm, the waves gentle, and there are some great ruins to explore, both in town, and in Zakros (where the second largest Minoan palace is being excavated).
Tomorrow afternoon, we depart Sitia for Santorini, a/k/a Thira, to see that amazing geography for one day and night. Then, we take another boat, and head to Naxon, another small island, and the next to last stop on our trip (Athens is the last). More soon...
Claire's friend, who lives in the hotel courtyard, with her mom and seven siblings - click to enlarge
The moat at the Knights of Malta fortress - click to enlarge
Monday, July 07, 2008
In Setia, Crete, Greece
We departed Rhodes yesterday, via a 45 minute turbo prop jet flight, and have no arrived in an 8,000 person village on the island of Crete, Setia.
We arrived at Heraklion--Hercules Town--and rented a beat up Hyundai and drove an extremely windy mountain road three hours across the island. But on the way, we did stop at the fantastic ruins of Knossos. I am in computer limbo right now, but will put up pictures when I get the chance.
I am sitting in an insane "Java Cafe" filled with thirty shouting teenagers and pre-teens, mostly playing World of Warcraft, Call of Duty 2, and downloading illegal movies and music on Limewire.
My laptop won't connect to their wireless, so I am typing on a greek keyboard and trying to get in touch with my office to deal with some weirdness.
But hey, that's part of vacation too, after all, for an Americaniki, isn't it?
---o0o---
We arrived at Heraklion--Hercules Town--and rented a beat up Hyundai and drove an extremely windy mountain road three hours across the island. But on the way, we did stop at the fantastic ruins of Knossos. I am in computer limbo right now, but will put up pictures when I get the chance.
I am sitting in an insane "Java Cafe" filled with thirty shouting teenagers and pre-teens, mostly playing World of Warcraft, Call of Duty 2, and downloading illegal movies and music on Limewire.
My laptop won't connect to their wireless, so I am typing on a greek keyboard and trying to get in touch with my office to deal with some weirdness.
But hey, that's part of vacation too, after all, for an Americaniki, isn't it?
---o0o---
Sunday, July 06, 2008
On the move again,from Rhodes to Seteia, Crete
We're kind of in the phase of our trip like "If it's Tuesday, it must be Rome." After two days on the island of Rhodes, we are flying to Seteia on the island of Crete tomorrow afternoon. A lot of these flights are costing an incredible $3o USD (pretty amazing when you consider that gasoline, and presumably, kerosene (aka jet fuel) costs about $11 USD a gallon (quit your belly achin' America). When we refilled out rental car with 7 gallons, the tab was $75 USD.
The trip on the ground, in the air, and on the water so far::::::::::::::: fly Seattle--> to Calgary-->to London-->to Istanbul (stayed a week)--> fly to Izmir-->drive to Selcuk (stayed three days)-->Drive from Selcuk-->to Datca (stayed three days)-->Drive from Datca-->to Marmarise-->sail to Rhodes, Greece (stayed two days)-->fly to Seteia, Crete, Greece.
From Seteia, we will take a bus to Heraklion, Crete and visit the famous, awesome, and controversially reconstructed ruins at Knossos (where Icarus and Daedalus flew their ill fated mission) and the home of King Minos, anwhich Keelin and I visited previously in 1982. From Heraklion, we will sail to Naxos, and then to Santorini, and finally to Piraeus (which is the port for Athens). After a couple days in Athens visitd all the bull worshipping. After visiting the great ruins there, we will board a plane for home. Wah.
---o0o---
Saturday, July 05, 2008
Graffiti in the marble, pointing the directions to the Brothel along the collonaded walkway at Ephesus
Poem: Prayers in Istanbul
1.
On a dusty cobblestone street
I hear three muezzins
In three directions
Call people to prayer
At three mosques,
With a slight delay
Between the calls.
Three chanters in three different rooms
Sing the same song
In phase-shifted rounds
Through nine silver speakers
Mounted on three
Ivory-white minarets
Capped in gleaming cerulean blue.
2.
At the washing stations,
Water splashes from brass spigots
Into pale grey limestone basins.
The faithful wash,
Bag their sandals,
And for the fourth time since dawn,
Walk onto the lush carpet
Of the cool quiet mosque
Tiled in words and symbols.
3.
They kneel, face the wall
And pray one more time.
I don’t know what they pray for,
But when I see their faces
And watch their devotions,
I know it’s something good.
4.
It’s so still and calm
In the mosque,
You could hear a fly expire.
---o0o---
Adolph Hitler's return to Berlin
Madame Tussand's withered, hunched over, half-mad rendition of Hitler is now on display
The Times of London reported today that a wax figure of Adolph Hitler has now arrived in Berlin. Interestingly, one of the last things Hitler said before he killed himself in April 1945 was that "he was determined not to fall into the hands of the Russians — and land up as the freak exhibit in a Moscow waxworks."
According to The Times "As luck would have it, Hitler — or, at least, a waxen effigy — has now been put on display in Berlin, a short stroll away from his former bunker.
"Thanks to Madame Tussauds, which has just opened a new affiliate in Berlin, Germans can at last view a realistic model of the Führer. The suspicion, though, is that he will bring nothing but trouble.
"To ensure that the wax Führer does not inspire neo-Nazi pilgrimages, Madame Tussauds has cordoned off the dummy and imposed a no-touch rule. You can kiss Robbie Williams or even Angela Merkel, but not Hitler; nor can you pose for a picture with him. There are CCTV cameras and the London-based company has also taken the precaution of moulding a very shrivelled Führer. Unlike the Hitler model in London, he is shown as a distinctly unvigorous character. It was created using 2,000 photographs of The Fuhrer for models."
According to The Times "As luck would have it, Hitler — or, at least, a waxen effigy — has now been put on display in Berlin, a short stroll away from his former bunker.
"Thanks to Madame Tussauds, which has just opened a new affiliate in Berlin, Germans can at last view a realistic model of the Führer. The suspicion, though, is that he will bring nothing but trouble.
"To ensure that the wax Führer does not inspire neo-Nazi pilgrimages, Madame Tussauds has cordoned off the dummy and imposed a no-touch rule. You can kiss Robbie Williams or even Angela Merkel, but not Hitler; nor can you pose for a picture with him. There are CCTV cameras and the London-based company has also taken the precaution of moulding a very shrivelled Führer. Unlike the Hitler model in London, he is shown as a distinctly unvigorous character. It was created using 2,000 photographs of The Fuhrer for models."
I have drawn and painted a few Adlophs over the years. Here are two. One is a digital paintng, and one is a crude approximation I created in my police sketch software, Faces 3.0:
click to enlarge
Friday, July 04, 2008
Poem: Just beneath the topsoil
Collonaded ruins wait
Hidden beneath the topsoil
For the next generation
Of archaeologists and historians
To begin excavation anew.
Cream colored Ionic columns
Shattered friezes, and statues
Lie quietly in repose
As someone back at the University
Matches Part 1324A to 1324B
And come up with a cornerstone
To act as a plinth
For the first earthquake fractured column
And the reconstruction begins.
If time and grants allow,
They may later get to the fragementary
Fingertips, hands, noses, ears, and penises,
And reconstruct the statues for us.
---o0o---
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